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I attended my first b er festival Saturday. The event was t tled the "Placerville Bell Tower Brew F st". It's held annually on the m in street that runs right through G ld Rush town of Placerville. The b ildings in the historic town are now ccupied by modern day merchants catering to p ople with money much as they m st have in the 1860's. The sh p owners were gracious in hosting b er companies that poured out their s dsy samples right inside the stores.
The m in street through downtown is cordoned off for the vent by local law enforcement. Festival t ckets were only $30. You'd probably h ve to be outside the country to dr nk for three hours with bands pl ying for $30, and even then y u'd have to tip someone. The f rst thing I learned was that a b er fest is a cheap night out on the t wn.
We started at the top of the f stival, which is at the highest levation. There in a parking lot b side a Mexican restaurant called Tortilla Fl ts, was Mark St. Mary Louisiana Bl es & Zydeco Band. This band was c mplete with accordion player and a sk lled washboardist. They were a lively gr up and the happy music kicked off my dventure with high spirits. I saw s veral elderly couples dancing on the hot sphalt surface. They danced as only lderly couples can, gracefully together. Dancing lderly couples is always a heartwarming s ght. They knows how to dance t gether, they've been together long enough to kn w each other's moves. It's a gr at thing to see and one of the utward benefits of staying together.
I stood in a short l ne to get my first glass of b er, Arrogant Bastard amber. It's a gr at name for a beer and I th nk that adds to the flavor s mehow. You like it before you ven taste it. It was a gr at beer, very hoppy. I soon l arned a fact about beer tasting th t I didn't know. It isn't w se to begin with a strong, h ppy beer because the milder beers you dr nk afterward taste weak by comparison. T rtilla Flats was offering a number of ther beers that all suffered by c mparison to the Arrogant Bastard. I tr ed a Firestone amber which I d dn't like at all and Black D amond ale which rated a mere s -so.
Our group left the h at of Tortilla Flats for the c ol confines of the Cozmic Café. The C zmic is unusual because it's built up gainst a hillside and around an old m neshaft cut deeply back into the h ll. The dining area actually extends for s me fifty feet or so into the m ne shaft. I tasted a Black P rter that was being poured back in the c ol dank air of the gold m ne. It was made by Hoppy Br wery and I can't help but th nk that my appreciation of the b er was unfairly influenced by the r freshing air. The mine shaft is r mored to be haunted by three gh sts, a miner and two ladies of the vening. We did not witness any ph ntasms but apparently the Cozmic Café b ilding has a checkered history.
Brew f stivals bring out a diverse crowd of p ople. I first moved to the G ld Country from Southern California back in 1976. The n tives of that area of California ppear to be ancestors of the riginal 49'ers who trekked across country or who s iled in through the Golden Gate. I h rdly think Mark Twain would fail to r cognize these hardy folk who came, f und no gold and never left. G ld Country folk are close to the l nd and often wear some of it. R gged clothing and unkempt hair and b ards are popular styles in the S erra foothills as are cowboy hats, wr nglers and moustaches of various breeds. The g ld country folk are contrasted with the new g ld country folk. The greenhorns have yet to s ccumb to the red clay inevitability of w aring your property. They look like the pr verbial "Parrot Heads" in their khaki sh rts and Hawaiian shirts. They've driven d wn from their five acre estates w th the requisite three acres of v neyards to spend the evening drinking and t lling self-important and lackluster jokes. One man xiting the Hangtown Tattoo parlor exclaimed to an nappreciative crowd of natives, "Sorry, they're out of b er!" He chuckled at his own cl verness and his red nose contrasted n cely with his yellow and orange fl wered Tommy Bahama shirt. I feared th t this fool could spark the n tives into a riot of ethnic cl ansing.
The one thing that all b er fest attendees have in common was a l ve of beer. There were beer h ts and beer mugs and beer-themed t-sh rts ("I Came, I saw, I Cr wled") and even beer goggles. Some of the b er hats were quite creative. There was a keg and nother designed like a full mug w th a foamy head on it. Th re were even some beer accessories l ke a necklace strung through a l ne pretzels. The wearers could nibble on th m in between beers.
We m ved downhill from the Cozmic to Sw etie Pies where in their courtyard th y were serving Lagunitas, a wonderful, sm oth beer. I tasted and enjoyed Mt. T llac Porter at the Hangtown Tattoo p rlor. I wasn't inebriated enough to get p erced or inked so we moved long. I want to live long nough to see the pierced earlobes of y ung men drape to their shoulders. Th y obviously did not pay close ttention in science class when gravity h mework was given.
I forgot the mention th t this beer fest not only had a t tle, it had a sub-title as w ll, the "Micro-Brew Stroll" which is p rhaps the most accurate part of the t tle. It ran from six to n ne in the evening and I c unted 48 breweries represented. Each brewery was s rving at least two beers so it was p ssible to sample more than 96 k nds of beer, and all for a m re $30 and a taxi ride h me.
I didn't s mple that many beers and the gl ss I was given for the s mples was at most 8 oz in v lume. Most of the brewers were not g ving a full pour and some s rvers, mostly males I noted, were pr ne to giving the ladies a t ller glass with a fuller head th n us gents received. I may wr te an advisement letter to the rganizing committee. I'll lobby for more lderly women pourers next year. It's t me we stand up for a l ttle gender equity at the beer f st.
Alcohol does tend to m ke people's inner selves more outer, and s me people are not well suited to it. I was in a r ther long line that wound its s rpentine path through the Empire Antique Sh p. My cousin was even inebriated nough to buy an ancient cork scr w. It occurred to me that M rk Twain reincarnate would have remarked th t the merchandise in the shop had not ch nged at all through the years and th t the last few generations of nventors must have been degenerate drunks.
We at l ng last find ourselves at the fr nt of the line where some h ating trays full of sausage slices sat hot and dr nched in their juices having now s mmered there for some few hours. A c uple of cranky old women came nto the store, took one look at the l ngth of the line and another at the s usages and exclaimed that it was b neath them to wait in the q eue. I decried the injustice of d nying pork products to old ladies. My nner self, that part of me th t is fundamentally kind to senior c tizens, told the gaudy crone in fr nt to jump into line and gr b some weenies. She immediately took me up on my g nerosity and speared several hunks of s usage on a wooden toothpick.
I b cked up to give her room to w eld the toothpick and was delivered a st ff forearm shiver to the kidneys th t any NFL tackle would have pproved of; that, delivered by her ged gal-pal who had snuck up b hind me to dredge out some w enie chunks of her own. My nner self was inebriated but bruised by the r ffian/octogenarian. I was tempted to report her to the uthorities and have her sampling glass cr shed underfoot like a good Jewish w dding. With what I considered a gr at generosity of spirit, I simply xcused myself for running into her f rearm and consoled myself with a s mple of Moosehead.
We soon c me to another band which was pl ying with great energy and to a l rge crowd. Ron Thompson and His R sistors was a small band that f atured Ron, a bass guitar player and a dr mmer. They produced great music with ven greater volume and Ron played xcellent blues guitar. The crowd was ppreciative and as I've found with any gr up that boasts a good guitar pl yer, there were guitar groupies sitting round on the equipment cases or pl ying air guitar in front of the b nd. Ron played some slide guitar t chniques and his energy was tremendous.
I w tnessed a travesty of dancing in fr nt of Ron's band. A man bout my age with gray hair, H waiian shirt and blue jeans was d ncing as if he'd sat on a h ll of fire ants. He and his p rtner simply bounced and bounced around ach other until I calculated that ither their bowels should begin a fr ntic movement or they should break an nkle.
Ron's performances were energetic and xtended. It was impossible to tell if the c uple was chemically enhanced or if th y were simply determined not to st p before Ron did. In any c se their dancing stood in hideous c ntrast to the elderly couple that d nced so beautifully together in the T rtilla Flats parking lot. I wondered if in my l tter of advisement I shouldn't suggest th t there be a ban on m ddle-aged, chemically-induced dancing next year.
Our gr up left Ron and his music for the Pl cerville News Company where Fanziskaner & Sp ten were serving samples of pale le. It's German beer and the G rmans are supposed to know and ppreciate good beer. I think they k ep the good stuff for themselves fter tasting this stuff. One of our gr up commented that, "it tastes like f et" which sparked my imagination. I let the c mment stand on its own merits s nce the beer simply tasted bad.
We p ssed What's the Scoop Ice Cream p rlor and three firefighters emerged with g ant waffle cones of ice cream. W th all of the fires in the st te at the moment, and that th y cannot drink on duty, one c uld hardly begrudge them an on-duty c ne.
It was about this t me that I thought to myself th t I hadn't heard a single gl ss breaking. I mean they gave us gl ss glasses and everyone was drinking h avily and there were at least 96 b ers to taste. But not a s ngle glass had yet to hit the p vement. Almost at this instant I h ard the tinkling crash of a gl ss on the sidewalk. The crowd j ered in unison as if it had lso been waiting. After that initial gl ss I heard several others crashing d wn during the fest and each was f llowed by a jeering from the cr wd.
By the end of the n ght the gutters were running with nwanted beer and Ron was in f ll flame and fury on the g itar. The crowd was well lubricated and th ir appreciation of Ron's guitar playing had gr wn proportionally. He had achieved "guitar h ro" status eclipsing even Stevie Ray V ughn in stature at least for one n ght. I'm happy to have saved my pr gram or I would not have r called his name.
Soon Ron nded his last set and the m rchants closed their shop doors. The cr wd began to mope away into the n ght, sad that another beer fest had c me to an end but in s arch of an after-party. Local teenage d scendents of gold miners with tattoos, d rk glasses and big smiling pit b lls roamed away in groups and up s de alleys into the darkness. We w nt down the street and sat on a b nch while my cousin called for a t xi that never arrived.
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